On the weekends we spend our time up and down the length and width of our green lawn to the clank and vibrations of millions of lawnmowers. The combined area of the UK’s domestic gardens is roughly the same as the whole of Somerset according to HTA.
That means we as a nation are mowing over tens of thousands of acres a year and that’s a lot of time either walking behind or sitting on mowers.
We have created the ultimate guide to lawnmowers from a brief history including a detailed timeline to the types of mowers and also key features to consider when purchasing.
A Brief History
Advancements in petrol and electric power in both the 19th century and 20th century proved instrumental for lawnmowers.
Although the late 19th century was overshadowed by Thomas Edison, Nikola Tesla and George Westinghouse’s AC/DC “battle of the currents”, the ongoing war was between petrol and electric.
English engineer Edwin Budding invented the first (manual) lawnmower in 1830 and it didn’t take long for his invention to become embroiled in the ensuing conflict.
Petrol & Diesel Power
1804 – Isaac de Rivaz, a Franco-Swiss inventor, develops the De Rivaz engine. Allegedly the first internal combustion engine in history.
1858 – Belgium engineer Étienne Lenoir develops the first two-stroke engine.
1870 – German inventor Siegfried Marcus mounts a combustion engine onto a cart. The first vehicle propelled by an engine.
1877 – Nikolaus Otto and a number of other German engineers patent the first practical 4-stroke engine.
1885 – Karl Benz (of Mercedes Benz) unveils the “Benz Patent-Motorwagen”, the first petrol propelled automobile.
1893 – Rudolf Diesel invents and patents the diesel engine.
1902 – British company Ransomes, Sims and Jefferies Limited invent the first petrol lawnmower.
1908 – Henry Ford unveils the Ford Model T, the first mass-produced and affordable automobile.
1968 – With pressure from western governments to limit emissions, Mercedes-Benz are the first manufacturer to swap from the traditional carburettor to Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI).
2016 – EFI technology starts to appear on lawnmowers and other handheld machinery.
Electric Power
1800 – Italian, Alessandro Volta, invents the first true battery.
1827 – Hungarian, Ányos István Jedlik, invents the dynamo and first electric motor.
1837 – Scottish scientist Robert Davidson creates the first battery-powered electric car.
1859 – The first rechargeable lead-acid battery is invited by Frenchman Gaston Planté.
1884 – Prolific English inventor Thomas Park unveils the first production electric car. Global engineers follow suit. Popularity soars and the golden age of electric vehicles begins.
1910 – Popularity of electric vehicles wanes as petrol engines become more efficient and fuel becomes cheaper.
1930 – Electric motors expand to lawnmowers.
1964 – First battery-powered lawnmower.
1969 – Concepts for the first robotic lawnmower appear.
1980 – American John B. Goodenough Invents the Li-ion battery.
1994 – First battery-powered ride-on lawnmower.
2016 – A new range of 80V battery lawnmowers are unveiled, rivalling the performance of petrol.
Types of Lawnmower
Investing in the right lawnmower will save you time, money and give you the perfect finish every time.
That being said, choosing which one is right is not so simple.
Luckily, we know our stuff.
User-propelled (Push)
Pretty self-explanatory – the lawnmower moves as you push. You control the speed and direction, but manoeuvrability is limited due to the lack of a steering axle.
Either the motion of you pushing (manual lawnmowers only), an engine or an electric motor powers the blade.
Hover
Similar to a hovercraft, a hover lawnmower creates a cushion of air between the lawnmower and lawn giving it a gliding action.
Although this allows for more freedom while operating, they can still be quite heavy to manoeuvre.
They also do not collect grass clippings.
Self-propelled
An engine or electric motor propels both the lawnmower and blade. Some self-propelled lawnmowers have a single speed, others, adjustable.
You control the direction, but maneuverability is limited due to the lack of a steering axle.
Ride-on
As the name suggests, there is no standing or walking required.
Ride-on lawnmowers are similar to cars in that they have a steering wheel, steering axle, pedal accelerator and pedal brake.
Some models are operated by a manual clutch and gearbox and some by an automatic-hydrostatic transmission.
There are four main types of ride-on lawnmowers:
Compact
The smallest and least powerful of ride-on lawnmowers.
Models in this range have basic features/functionality, smaller engines and shorter cutting blades.
Their engine is rear mounted, cutting deck/blade in the middle and the grass clipping basket/compartment rear as well (just behind the engine).
Lawn Tractors & Garden Tractors
Lawn tractors and garden tractors are bigger and require more space to store.
Their engine is front mounted, cutting deck/blade in the middle and the grass clipping basket/compartment rear mounted.
Basically a miniature farm tractor, they are robust and powerful enough to mow, as well as plough snow and tow trailers.
Zero-turn
With a rear-mounted engine and wheels that allow for a 360° turning, these ride-on lawnmowers offer maximum manoeuvrability.
They are suited to gardens or lawns that are more intricate or complex in shape, or that have obstacles such as flower beds etc to navigate.
Out-front Decks
Also with a rear-mounted engine, these ride-on lawnmowers are unique in that they have a front-mounted cutting deck/blade.
They allow you to cut to the outermost extremities of a lawn/garden, or as close as possible to an obstacle.
This means that they are great for cutting underneath benches, tables and low hanging tree branches.
Robot
Once set up, robot lawnmowers work on their own.
They trim a designated area intermittently and return to their base station when not in use, to charge, or for shelter from the rain.
They also do not collect grass clippings.
Power
Are modern corded and cordless lawnmowers finally advanced enough to depose the long-reigning king of power – fossil fuel, ushering in an age of electrical garden dominance?
Well, electric lawnmowers are certainly as – if not more – powerful than petrol, are cheaper and better for the environment.
So, what’s the catch? We’ll explain below.
Petrol
There are not that many diesel lawnmowers on today’s market. In the past, diesel engines were more economical, but with fuel prices now similar and petrol engines more efficient, they provide little advantage.
Most petrol lawnmowers have either a 1 or 2 cylinder, 4-stroke internal combustion engine.
Engine capacity is measured in cubic centimetres (CC) and energy output in horsepower (HP). Typically, the higher each of these numbers, the more power it provides.
To house the engine and mechanical parts, petrol lawnmowers are built quite robustly.
If you choose a model with a bigger engine, the housing and chassis will generally be bigger as well. Certain models have more than one engine choice.
Petrol engines require annual servicing in order to work effectively. Regular maintenance also improves product lifespan.
Because they are quite noisy and have some emissions, they can be a nuisance to neighbours, especially if you have a small garden.
The main strength of petrol lawnmowers is that they are great for remote areas.
You don’t have to worry about a cord getting in the way and unlike electric cordless (battery) lawnmowers, petrol can be stored in a jerry can to top up the lawnmower as and when is needed.
Internal Combustion Engine
Although an engine is made up of many different components, the critical parts are the: carburettor, cylinder, piston, flywheel, crankshaft, inlet/outlet valve and spark plug.
As the name suggests, these engines have 4 cycles to a stroke:
Inlet – a valve opens allowing a mixture of air and fuel to enter from the carburettor.
Compression – the intake valve closes and a piston compresses the mixture.
Power – magnets on the flywheel provide the spark to the spark plug. The spark plug ignites the mixture, releasing energy.
This turns the crankshaft and flywheel both creating propulsion and keeping everything in motion for the next cycle.
Outlet – a valve opens to allow spent gases to leave.
Rinse and repeat.
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI)
Early petrol car engines were fitted with carburettors – which produced a lot of harmful emissions.
In the 1970/80s, with demand for petrol cars on the rise, the UK government had to find a way to limit the growing source of pollution.
They outlined a commitment to reducing total emissions by 80% by the year 2050.
Carbon budgets were put in place to restrict the amount of greenhouse gas produced over a five year period.
EFI was suggested as a solution. It has lower emissions and provides a much cleaner burn than that of a carburettor.
By the 1990s, most production cars had adopted EFI, but the majority of lawnmowers continued to use carburettors… until recently.
Benefits of EFI:
- Better fuel efficiency/less fuel required (reduces fuel consumption by up to 25% in some cases).
- Exhaust emissions are cleaner.
- Lower emissions as a whole.
Although more expensive to buy than their carburettor counterpart, lawnmowers with EFI are much more efficient and will save you money in the long run.
Electric
There are two types of electric lawnmower: mains (corded) and battery (cordless). Both types are powered by electric motors.
As well as performing just as effectively (if not better) than internal combustion engines, electric also offers a few more benefits:
- Need minimal maintenance.
- Quieter.
- Have zero emissions.
- More compact.
- Less expensive to run.
As they are quiet and have zero emissions, they are perfect for the environmentally conscious business or homeowner.
Because electrons travel much faster along a wire than fuel does along a fuel line, electric motors have a quicker response time and greater torque.
When generating torque, a petrol engine starts low and gradually increases. Electric motors can create maximum torque almost instantly.
Similar to “CC” and “HP”, an electric lawnmower’s power is measured in watts (W). Typically, the higher this number, the more power it provides.
Corded electric lawnmowers require a nearby socket, so are not recommended for people requiring unrestricted movement or are working in a remote area.
The cable also presents a health and safety risk as it can get in the way of cutting.
Electric cordless models use rechargeable lithium-ion batteries. Their capacity is measured in amp-hours (Ah) or watt-hours (Wh).
Typically, the higher these numbers, the longer a single charge will last.
With cordless, you don’t have to worry about a cord getting in the way and can work in remote areas. But, you do have to consider the charge of the battery.
Tackling tough grass will drain the battery quicker and as it loses charge, it will lose power/performance.
Unlike petrol, which can be stored in a jerry can, you cannot recharge a battery without a power outlet, so it is advisable to purchase a spare battery or two.
Brushed & Brushless Motors
A brushed motor is made up of four basic parts: carbon brushes, a ring of magnets, an armature, and a commutator.
A charge travels from the battery, through the brushes and into the commutator.
The commutator then passes the charge to the armature (made up of copper wire coils or windings).
Magnetised, the armature pushes against the ring of magnets that surround it and forces the assembly to spin.
As it rotates, current is routed to different sets of windings which maintain the magnetic repulsion/attraction making the motor continually turn.
A brushless motor has a small circuit board instead of the brushes and commutator, and different positions for the magnets and armature.
Brushless motors are more efficient, but more expensive than that of brushed.
Manual
Manual lawnmowers are the cheapest option as they have no engine or motor.
You provide the propulsion which in turn rotates the blade.
Because of their unique mechanism of action, you can only get manual lawnmowers with a cylinder blade, not rotary.
They are portable, easy to store, require minimal maintenance, quiet, have zero emissions and great for someone wanting a workout!
That being said, they are by far the weakest of the three power types.
Which Is Cheaper to Run?
Technically, a manual lawnmower would be the cheapest option overall as there are no ongoing power/fuel overheads. But, because of their limitations when compared with petrol or electric models, they have been excluded from this comparison.
Between petrol and electric… Well, how long is a piece of string?
When calculating running costs, there are a number of influencing factors you have to consider.
Things like petrol/electric prices, the frequency of use, duration of use, the type of grass you are cutting, how the lawnmower is stored, whether the lawnmower has been serviced, the fuel you use, the charger/battery you use etc – all need to be considered.
The average price of petrol in the UK: £1.20 per litre.
The average price of electricity in the UK: £0.13 per kWh.
(Prices accurate at the time of publication).
As an example, take a top of the range electric cordless lawnmower with a 1500w motor and an 80v battery, and a petrol lawnmower of equivalent performance (excluding ride-on lawnmowers) with a 195cc engine and a 1l fuel tank.
If all the influencing factors were the same/consistent, a full, single charge of the 80v battery would cost just under 20p. So theoretically, you could get six full charges to one tank of petrol.
Electric/battery power is cheaper in the long run but more expensive initially, as essentially, you are buying the fuel upfront (battery cells just need recharging).
Types of Blades
“I only need to worry about one type of lawnmower blade, right?”
Wrong. There are several types of blade and choosing the right one for your lawn is very important.
Although generally: the longer the blade, the faster the cut, how close you want the cut, or how you want it cut, varies.
Each have advantages/disadvantages and we’ve covered them for you below.
Cylinder Blade
Available on user-propelled and self-propelled petrol or electric lawnmowers and manual lawnmowers, cylinder blades have a scissor-like cutting action – providing the best cut possible.
Although the vast majority of ride-on lawnmowers have rotary blades, you can get them with cylinder bladed “arms”.
Cylinder blades are mainly used by groundsmen of golf, tennis or football clubs as they are expensive.
Cylinder blades range from 36cm – 71cm (14”- 28”) in length.
Rotary Blade
Available on user-propelled and self-propelled petrol or electric lawnmowers, rotary blades have a ripping/tearing action.
Although not as effective as cylinder blades, they are more readily available and cheaper.
Rotary blades range from 28cm – 56cm (11” – 22”) in length.
High Lift Blade
A high-lift blade increases airflow under the lawnmower to aid with the grass clipping basket, bag or compartment collection. Found mostly on ride-on lawnmowers with long discharge tubes.
Mulching Blade
Mulching blades have a special curvature that re-circulates grass clippings beneath the deck to be cut and re-cut into tiny pieces.
Blade Effectiveness
Most modern lawnmowers allow you to adjust the height of the blade.
Set the blade too high and you won’t cut enough of the grass’s length. Too low, and the blade will “scalp” the grass.
Ride-on lawnmowers have several “preset” cutting heights. These can be changed via a lever or button.
The most important thing when using a lawnmower: never mow with a dull blade. It is a major contributor to lawn scalping.
For both rotary and cylinder blade lawnmowers, their mechanisms of action rely on how sharp the blade is.
Imagine cutting through something with a blunt pair of scissors or a knife. Although doable, the cut won’t be great and it will take considerably longer.
Scalping can also seriously hinder the grass’s ability to recover.
The next time you mow, take a look at the grass afterwards. If soil patches are visible or if the grass looks torn, your blade is in need of a sharpening.
Which Blade Is Right For Me?
Two things: size of the lawn and purpose of the cut.
High lift blades are found predominantly on ride-on lawnmowers and only aid grass clipping collection. They do not affect the cut.
If you aren’t too bothered about lawn care (fertilising or seeding etc), a mulching blade is great way of keeping your lawn healthy without any additional effort.
If you are looking for a perfect cut, especially in a commercial capacity where aesthetics is important or integral to the business, a cylinder blade is the best choice.
For anything else, a rotary blade is sufficient.
It then boils down to lawn size. Generally, the bigger the area, the longer the blade:
- If the area of your lawn is anywhere between 0 and 250 square metres (m2), look for a blade between 25 – 39 cm in length.
- If the area of your lawn is anywhere between 250 and 500 m2, look for a blade between 40 – 45 cm in length.
- If the area of your lawn is anywhere between 500 and 1000 m2, look for a blade between 45 – 50 cm in length.
- If the area of your lawn is 1000 m2 or more, look for a blade 50 cm and longer.
Remember: you will still need to consider the type of lawnmower and how it’s powered too.
If you are looking at longer blades in particular, it is probably worth investing in a bigger, more powerful lawnmower such as a ride-on.
Grass Collection & Disposal
What use is a lawnmower if it doesn’t collect grass? Still quite useful actually!
There is a lawnmower for everyone – professional or domestic, beginner or pro.
If you want a quick cut and no mess, get one with basket, bag or compartment. Want to mow your lawn and fertilise it at the same time? Get one that mulches.
If a lawnmower has two or more of the below collection/disposal techniques, it is usually referred to as “X-in-1”.
For example, there are many 2-in-1 and 3-in-1 lawnmowers on the market and even a few 4-in-1 – which offer all the below.
Basket, Bag or Compartment
Most modern lawnmowers have a basket, bag or compartment to collect grass clippings. They are generally mounted at the rear of the lawnmower.
Capacity is measured in litres – the larger the capacity, the more grass clippings it holds.
Most lawnmowers come with a basket, bag or compartment as standard, although you may need to purchase it separately.
Robot lawnmowers and hover lawnmowers are not able to use a basket, bag or compartment.
Cut and Drop
Although not as fine as mulching, the lawnmower will spread the clippings under the blade rather than side or rear.
Side or Rear Discharge
The grass clippings are thrown out of the side or the rear of the lawnmower, either onto the lawn directly or into a basket, bag or compartment.
This can be useful if the grass is long and conditions are too wet for mulching or collection.
You can then rake remaining clumps into the lawn or wait for it to dry and collect.
Mulching
Mulching lawnmowers are fitted with a special blade that re-circulates and re-cuts grass clippings until a fine “mulch”.
Similar to cut and drop, the grass is then dispersed under the blade and not out of rear/side vents.
Some lawnmowers will have this functionally as standard, others – you may need to purchase a separate mulching kit.
A mulching kit will include the mulching blade and a plug to block the rear discharge vent.
As mulch decomposes, it releases nutrients back into the soil, keeping your lawn healthy.
If you do choose mulching, make sure check on your lawn frequently, as mulching can cause weeds.
Maintenance
Just like your car, lawnmowers needs regular TLC to stay in good working order.
Regular servicing maximises performance, extends the product’s lifespan, minimises overall downtime and crucially, keeps the manufacturer’s warranty in place.
The same thing can be said about your garden. Keeping it healthy and weed/moss-free means less problems down the line.
Whether you’re new to gardening or a seasoned veteran, we have some tips below.
Petrol
We recommend doing the following after each cut (when powered off and in accordance with the user manual):
- Remove all grass/mud.
- Check nuts and bolts for tightness (listen for rattling when moved).
- Check the blade for sharpness and signs of rust or damage.
- Check oil level.
- Store in a secure, dry and sheltered place.
- Top up fuel.
If you don’t think you will be using it for a while (around 30 days or more), make sure the fuel tank is empty prior to storage.
Drain the fuel tank completely and then try to start the engine – if it doesn’t start, this means the tank and carburettor are free of fuel.
The reason behind this is that ethanol, which is present in modern petrol, goes off/bad, damaging your engine.
Electric
With the exception of topping up the fuel tank and checking the oil level, maintenance is the same as petrol.
As with any electrical equipment, make sure you keep it away from damp or wet.
Li-on batteries shouldn’t be used or stored at temperatures below 6°C / 42.8°F.
Manual
With the exception of topping up the fuel tank and checking the oil level, maintenance is the same as petrol.
Specialist Repairs & Servicing
Ideally, you should service your lawnmower every 6 to 12 months (depending on usage).
If your lawnmower is not as effective as usual and has issues starting and running, it’s better to be safe than sorry – take it your lawnmower to a specialist in garden machinery. The manufacturer of your lawnmower will have information on nearby official dealers.
If you have a manufacturer warranty on your machine, it needs to be looked at by an authorised dealer.
Lawn Care
The typical British climate can be harsh on your lawn and although you’re probably not seeking the quintessential Wimbledon centre-court look, keeping your garden neat, trimmed and healthy is still an important task for every homeowner.
Here are a few things to watch out for when caring for your lawn:
Mowing: Mow either weekly or fortnightly (weekly in seasons of high growth).
Never remove more than one-third of the grass blade on any one pass. Anymore, and it actually kill the grass.
Alternate mowing directions to avoid forming ruts in your lawn.
Weeds: If you have a lot of weeds visible, a soap-based herbicide is ok to use.
Make sure you follow the instructions on the bottle as using too much could damage the grass.
Patches of visible soil or torn grass: This is likely your lawnmower scalping the grass as it cuts.
To stop it from happening, first, adjust the blade height (if possible), and check to see if the wheels are leaving marks.
If the patches still occur, the blade is likely to be dull.
Never mow with a dull blade – you should take your lawnmower for a service or change the blade if you have a spare.
Moss: Compacted, shaded soil with drainage problems is the perfect breeding ground for moss.
Rake moss as soon as you find it or apply a moss-killing product you can pick up
at garden centres.
To stop it regrowing, you can aerate and de-compact your lawn allowing for drainage and a healthy supply of air and water.
You can do this by scarifying or spiking your lawn.
Unusual brown/yellow patches: Are insects or grubs eating the roots? Have you split a caustic liquid recently? Does your cat /dog urinate on the lawn? All these can leave unusual patches.
It is a case of monitoring the lawn and isolating the issue. Eventually, through a process of elimination, you will find the causes.
In the meantime, you should aerate/scarify, seed and fertilise patchy areas.
Fertilising: Packaged lawn supplements or fertiliser help to achieve a green, dense and healthy looking lawn.
There are many different products available, some that are specially designed for a specific season or some that can be used all-year-round. Effects are similar, as long as you follow the instructions on the packaging.
You should apply fertiliser straight after cutting the grass so it has time to settle into the lawn, unless you are mulching (below).
If you want a more natural solution, choose a lawnmower with mulching. The finely cut grass or “mulch” slowly decomposes and releases nutrients back into the lawn.
Comfort & Convenience
Sometimes, choosing a lawnmower might come down to what luxury features it offers. Especially with competition between manufacturers so fierce.
Similar to cars, modern lawnmowers are kitting premium models out with innovative features to make operation as easy as possible.
Handles
All lawnmowers (with the exception of ride-on lawnmowers and robot lawnmowers) have a frame that connects each side of the lawnmower’s chassis to a bar the operator holds.
Usually, this frame is height adjustable and foldable (for storage).
The positioning of the ignition, throttle and other levers vary by model and manufacturer.
More expensive/powerful models will have grips made from soft or anti-vibration material as well as other features to make operation easier.
Although easily overlooked, It’s important to consider the handle type when choosing a lawnmower.
If you are going to be holding the bar for long periods of time, it’s wise to invest in something with a premium grip and more comfort features.
Also, if storage/transportation is a requirement, check to make sure the handlebar is fully adjustable/foldable.
Rollers
For anyone wanting a picturesque lawn, a lawnmower with a rear roller will help you achieve that perfect striped finish.
You can get rollers on petrol lawnmowers (including on ride-on lawnmowers as an attachment) and electric lawnmowers, and for both cylinder or rotary blades.
Contrary to popular belief, adding stripes to your lawn is not a complex task. If anything, it’s just an optical illusion.
The rear roller flattens and bends the grass each pass, which, in turn, changes the angle the light reflects off the grass blade, giving the impression that the grass is a different shade.
The intensity of each stripe is dependent on how far you bend the blades of grass, so, the more times you pass/pressure that is applied, the better the finish.
Wheels & Turning Circle
All lawnmowers, with the exception of hover lawnmowers, robot lawnmowers and some manual lawnmowers, have four wheels.
A lawnmower with a rear roller will only have two wheels.
Ride-on lawnmowers (unless they have a roller) tend to be either two, four or all-wheel drive. Similar to a car, the latter two offer greater vehicle control.
Some lawnmowers have tyres with extra grip for better traction on uneven surfaces.
Similarly, you can also get turf protecting or “anti-scalp” wheels. These are usually non-gripped, extra-wide wheels (or rubber tyres) that reduce the number of visible marks left on your lawn.
As most lawnmowers lack a steering axle, they are not able to turn as easy as say, a car.
Because their steering is quite linear, you will often require a strimmer or brushcutter to trim those hard to reach areas.
Despite their size, ride-on lawnmowers are surprisingly agile. As they have a bigger engine a steering axle, it’s just like driving a go-kart.
Some ride-on lawnmowers offer turning circles close to zero (some even zero), allowing for tight cornering/turning and operation in extremely tight or confined areas.
Generally, a lawnmower with a smaller turning circle will have better increased mobility.
Special Features
Some class-leading models really do offer unique tech.
The introduction of Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) for petrol lawnmowers and brushless motors for electric are two of the biggest developments.
Both of these improve the performance of the machine and reduce ongoing costs, and although more expensive initially, are worth keeping your eye on.
Also new to lawnmowers – electronic or key start ignitions.
Many petrol carburettor lawnmowers still have the iconic pull-start cable, but a fair few are switching to make life easier.
It’s worth pointing out that all EFI lawnmowers have electronic ignitions as standard.
The desire to have a freshly cut lawn has led industries to develop and design some outstanding machines over the years. From the early reel lawnmower to the exciting EFI’s we are sure to see some exciting new developments in the future.
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